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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.